Portugal notes

Porto, Lisbon, and Surrounding Towns

This March and April, we set out on an adventure through Portugal, a country that captured our hearts with its history, culture, food, and warm hospitality. From the cobbled streets of Porto to the City of Seven Hills of Lisbon, every stop along the way offered something unforgettable.

In our travels, we took time to explore Portugal's historically significant sights, churches, and museums. Each place revealed layers of the country's past—from the ornament of Baroque churches in Porto, to Lisbon's grand plazas and monuments. The museums we visited gave us a deeper appreciation of Portugal's history, especially the maritime heritage, from which the explorers set out. These visits reminded us how deeply history is woven into the everyday life of the Portuguese.

Porto: City of Charm and Port Wine

Our journey began in Porto, a city that screams old-world charm. While Porto itself doesn't produce wine, it is famous for port, which comes from the Douro Valley region. The city is known instead for its stunning architecture and the historic Ribeira district, a maze of narrow streets and riverside cafés and restaurants.

Our apartment in Porto couldn't have been better located—just 200 meters from Ponte Luís I, making most sights easily walkable. Staying in an apartment rather than a hotel gave us the comforts of home, especially the washer and dryer, which we found invaluable during our extended travels.

Across the River: Vila Nova de Gaia

Crossing the Ponte Luís I, brought us to Vila Nova de Gaia, Porto's sister city on the opposite bank of the Douro River. Gaia is a lively hub filled with shops, restaurants, and—most famously—the historic port wine warehouses. Many of the world's best-known port houses have their cellars here, where visitors can tour, taste, and learn about the centuries-old traditions of port wine making. Strolling along the riverfront in Gaia gave us some of the most stunning views back toward Porto's colorful skyline. We enjoy the afternoon sitting on the riverbank, watching the flat-bottomed Rabelo boats floating towards the sunset while enjoying a glass of wine. This sight and feel are unforgettable.

A Taste of the Douro Valley

We took a side trip into the Douro Valley, where we cruised along the river and admired the terraced vineyards climbing up the steep banks. The region is known for its granite-rich soil, which produces tiny grapes about the size of blueberries. Though small, these grapes yield flavorful wines that the Portuguese must be proud of. Wine tasting here was an absolute highlight—an education in both the craft and the culture of Portuguese winemaking. Lunch in a vineyard included a pork dish called Rojões, which are chunks of marinated pork leg or shoulder, fried and stewed in lard with garlic and onions, paired with red wine, and are heavenly.

Lisbon: A Blend of Old and New

From Porto, we traveled south to Lisbon, a city full of contrasts: steep hills, iconic trams, colorful tiled buildings, white stone sidewalks, and neighborhoods that vibrate with both history and modern life. Lisbon has the look of the old world, but with a contemporary flair.

Our apartment in Lisbon was in the Chiado district, just a block from the Rossio Train Station, the Santa Justa Lift, and a local Fado theater. This location made it easy to explore the city, and the proximity to the Fado theater was unforgettable. Experiencing this traditional Portuguese music live was beautiful. To my understanding, its melodies carry a deep sense of longing and nostalgia, which is bittersweet for something or someone lost but forever remembered. We certainly can see all of it through the singer's movement, tone, and expression.

While in Portugal, we navigated the city mostly on foot, with occasional rides on ride-share apps such as Bolt, sometimes Uber, and occasionally hopping on a tram for the quintessential Lisbon experience. For longer distances between towns and cities, we found Portugal's train system and national buses (ALSA and FLIX) to be both economical and reliable.

On our journey, we went beyond the big cities. We explored several of Portugal's towns and small cities on day trips:

Fátima: A place of deep spirituality and reflection, famous as the site of the 1917 Marian apparitions. Today, it remains one of the most important Catholic pilgrimage sites in the world.

Óbidos: A picture-perfect medieval town, complete with fortified walls, a castle, and charming streets. We couldn't resist trying the local cherry liqueur, Ginjinha, served in chocolate cups.

Nazaré: Known worldwide for its giant waves and a surfing paradise. It's also known for its traditional fishing village atmosphere, where fish are still dried under the sun on the beach.

Sintra: A magical town nestled in the mountains, where the famous "Moorish Castle" refers to the Castelo dos Mouros, an ancient fortification in the Sintra Hills of Portugal, which the Moors built in the 10th century. Also, a fairy-tale castle, the colorful Pena Palace, looked straight out of a storybook.

Belém: A short train ride from Lisbon to Belém, where we visited the Belém Tower and the Jerónimos Monastery, both of which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites and iconic symbols of the Age of Discoveries. Nearby, the MAAT Museum of Art offers a unique experience, allowing visitors to walk on a roof reminiscent of modern structures, with a stunning view of the 25th of April Bridge and the "Christ the King" Monument.

Cascais: Just a short trip from Lisbon, Cascais offered us beautiful beaches, coastal walks, historic charm, and great food. We even went hiking in the countryside, where we chatted with a local shepherd despite the language barrier—a humbling and authentic travel moment.